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Robinson Crusoe Island (Spanish: Isla Róbinson Crusoepronounced [ˈizla ˈroβinson kɾuˈso]), formerly known as Más a Tierra (Closer to Land),^[3] is the second largest of the Juan Fernández Islands, situated 670 km (362 nmi; 416 mi) west of San Antonio, Chile, in the South Pacific Ocean. It is the more populous of the inhabited islands in the archipelago (the other being Alejandro Selkirk Island), with most of that in the town of San Juan Bautista at Cumberland Bay on the island's north coast.^[2]

The island was home to the marooned sailor Alexander Selkirk from 1704 to 1709, and is thought to have inspired novelist Daniel Defoe's fictional Robinson Crusoe in his 1719 novel about the character (although the novel is explicitly set in the Caribbean, not in the Juan Fernández Islands).^[4] This was just one of several survival stories from the period that Defoe would have been aware of.^[5] To reflect the literary lore associated with the island and attract tourists, the Chilean government renamed the place Robinson Crusoe Island in 1966.^[3]

• 4History

Geography[edit]

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Robinson Crusoe Island has a mountainous and undulating terrain, formed by ancient lava flows which have built up from numerous volcanic episodes. The highest point on the island is 915 m (3,002 ft) above sea level at El Yunque. Intense erosion has resulted in the formation of steep valleys and ridges. A narrow peninsula is formed in the southwestern part of the island called Cordón Escarpado. The island of Santa Clara is located just off the southwest coast.^[1]

Robinson Crusoe Island lies to the west of the boundary between the Nazca Plate and the South American Plate, and rose from the ocean 3.8 – 4.2 million years ago. A volcanic eruption on the island was reported in 1743 from El Yunque, but this event is uncertain. On 20 February 1835, a day-long eruption began from a submarine vent 1.6 kilometres (1.0 mi) north of Punta Bacalao. The event was quite minor—only a Volcanic Explosivity Index 1 eruption—but it produced explosions and flames that lit up the island, along with tsunamis.^{[1][citation needed]}

Climate[edit]

Robinson Crusoe has a subtropical climate, moderated by the cold Humboldt Current, which flows to the east of the island, and the southeast trade winds. Temperatures range from 3 °C (37 °F) to 34 °C (93 °F), with an annual mean of 15.4 °C (60 °F). Higher elevations are generally cooler, with occasional frosts. Rainfall is greater in the winter months, and varies with elevation and exposure; elevations above 500 m (1,640 ft) experience almost daily rainfall, while the western, leeward side of the island is lower and drier.^[6]

Flora and fauna[edit]

The Fernandezian Region is a floristic region which includes the Juan Fernández Islandsarchipelago. It is in the Antarctic Floristic Kingdom, but often also included within the Neotropical Kingdom. As World Biosphere Reserves since 1977, these islands have been considered of maximum scientific importance because of the endemicplant families, genera, and species of flora and fauna. Out of 211 native plant species, 132 (63%) are endemic, as well as more than 230 species of insects.^[7]

Robinson Crusoe Island has one endemic plant family, Lactoridaceae. The Magellanic penguin is also found there.^[8] The Juan Fernández firecrown is an endemic and critically endangered red hummingbird, which is best known for its needle-fine black beak and silken feather coverage. The Masatierra petrel is named after the island's former name.^[7]

History[edit]

The island was first named Juan Fernandez Island after Juan Fernández, a Spanish sea captain and explorer who was the first to land there in 1574. It was also known as Más a Tierra.^[3] There is no evidence of an earlier discovery either by Polynesians, despite the proximity to Easter Island, or by Native Americans.^[10]

From 1681-1684, a Miskito man known as Will was marooned on the island. Twenty years later, in 1704, the Scottish sailor Alexander Selkirk was also marooned there, living in solitude for four years and four months. Selkirk had been gravely concerned about the seaworthiness of his ship, Cinque Ports (which ended up sinking very shortly after), and declared his wish to be left on the island during a mid-voyage restocking stop. His captain, Thomas Stradling, a colleague on the voyage of privateer and explorer William Dampier, was tired of his dissent and obliged. All Selkirk had left with him was a musket, gunpowder, carpenter's tools, a knife, a Bible, and some clothing.^[11] The story of Selkirk's rescue is included in the 1712 book A Voyage to the South Sea, and Round the World by Edward Cooke.

In an 1840 narrative, Two Years Before the Mast, Richard Henry Dana, Jr. described the port of Juan Fernandez as a young prison colony.^[12] The penal institution was soon abandoned and the island again uninhabited^[13] before a permanent colony was eventually established in the latter part of the 19th century. Joshua Slocum visited the island between 26 April and 5 May 1896, during his solo global circumnavigation on the sloop Spray. The island and its 45 inhabitants are referred to in detail in Slocum's memoir, Sailing Alone Around the World.^[14]

World War I[edit]

During World War I, Vice Admiral Maximilian von Spee's German East Asia Squadron stopped and re-coaled at the island 26–28 October 1914, four days before the Battle of Coronel. While at the island, the admiral was unexpectedly rejoined by the armed merchant cruiser Prinz Eitel Friedrich, which he had earlier detached to attack Allied shipping in Australian waters. On 9 March 1915 SMS Dresden, the last surviving cruiser of von Spee's squadron after his death at the Battle of the Falklands, returned to the island's Cumberland Bay hoping to be interned by the Chilean authorities. Caught and fired upon by a British squadron at the Battle of Más a Tierra on 14 March, the ship was scuttled by its crew.^[15]

2010 tsunami[edit]

On 27 February 2010 Robinson Crusoe Island was hit by a tsunami following a magnitude 8.8 earthquake. The tsunami was about 3 m (10 ft) high when it reached the island.^[16] Sixteen people lost their lives, and most of the coastal village of San Juan Batista was washed away.^[17] The only warning the islanders had came from a 12-year-old girl,^[18] who noticed the sudden drawback of the sea that presages the arrival of a tsunami wave and saved many of her neighbors from harm.^[17]

Society[edit]

Robinson Crusoe had an estimated population of 843 in 2012. Most of the island's inhabitants live in the village of San Juan Bautista on the north coast at Cumberland Bay.^[2] Although the community maintains a rustic serenity dependent on the spiny lobster trade, residents employ a few vehicles, a satellite Internet connection and televisions. The main airstrip, Robinson Crusoe Airfield, is located near the tip of the island's southwestern peninsula. The flight from Santiago de Chile is just under three hours. A ferry runs from the airstrip to San Juan Bautista.^[19]

Tourists number in the hundreds per year. One activity gaining popularity is scuba diving,^[19] particularly on the wreck of the German light cruiser Dresden, which was scuttled in Cumberland Bay during World War I.^[15]

In popular culture[edit]

Apocalypse Island, a television documentary aired by the History Channel on 3 January 2010, was filmed on Robinson Crusoe Island. It showed two rock formations that Canadian explorer Jim Turner claimed were badly degraded Mayan statues.^[20] With no other sign of any pre-Spanish human presence on the island,^[10] however, the program has been criticized as lacking in scientific credibility.^[21]

Further reading[edit]

• Perez Ibarra, Martin (2014). Señales del Dresden (in Spanish). Chile: Uqbar Editores. ISBN978-956-9171-36-9. The story of German light cruiser Dresden which was scuttled in this island during World War I.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

1. ^ ^abcdTorres Santibáñez, Hernán; Torres Cerda, Marcela (2004). Los parques nacionales de Chile: una guía para el visitante (in Spanish). Editorial Universitaria. p. 49. ISBN978-956-11-1701-3.
2. ^ ^abc'Censos de poblacion y vivienda'. Instituto Nacional de Estadísticas (2012). Retrieved 2 January 2013.
3. ^ ^abcSeverin, Tim (2002). In Search of Robinson Crusoe. New York: Basic Books. pp. 23–24. ISBN978-046-50-7698-7.
4. ^Severin, Tim (2002). In Search of Robinson Crusoe. New York: Basic Books. pp. 17–19. ISBN978-046-50-7698-7.
5. ^Little, Becky (28 September 2016). 'Debunking the Myth of the 'Real' Robinson Crusoe'. National Geographic. Retrieved 30 September 2016.
6. ^'Parque Nacional Archipiélago de Juan Fernández' Corporacion Nacional Forestal de Chile (2010). Retrieved 27 May 2010. Archived August 23, 2012, at the Wayback Machine
7. ^ ^ab'Forest on Robinson Crusoe Island'. Wondermondo (2012). Retrieved 18 October 2012.
8. ^Hogan, C. Michael (2008). Magellanic Penguin. GlobalTwitcher. Retrieved 18 October 2012.
9. ^'Welcome Back HA03—Robinson Crusoe Island', Preparatory Commission for the Comprehensive Nuclear-Test-Ban Treaty Organization (2014). Retrieved 5 April 2014.
10. ^ ^abAnderson, Atholl; Haberle, Simon; Rojas, Gloria; Seelenfreund, Andrea; Smith, Ian & Worthy, Trevor (2002). An Archeological Exploration of Robinson Crusoe Island, Juan Fernandez Archipelago, Chile. New Zealand Archaeological Association.
11. ^Rogers, Woodes (1712). A Cruising Voyage Round the World: First to the South-seas, Thence to the East-Indies, and Homewards by the Cape of Good Hope. London: A. Bell and B. Lintot. pp. 125–126.
12. ^Dana, Richard Henry (1840). Two Years Before the Mast: A Personal Narrative of Life at Sea. New York: Harper & Brothers. pp. 28–32.
13. ^Coulter, John (1845). Adventures in the Pacific: With Observations on the Natural Productions, Manners and Customs of the Natives of the Various Islands. London: Longmans, Brown & Co. pp. 32–33.
14. ^Slocum, Joshua (2012). Sailing Alone Around the World. Oxford: Beaufoy Publishing. pp. 77–82. ISBN978-190-67-8034-0.
15. ^ ^abDelgado, James P. (2004). Adventures of a Sea Hunter: In Search of Famous Shipwrecks. Vancouver: Douglas & McIntyre. pp. 168–174. ISBN978-1-926685-60-1.
16. ^Ricketts, Colin (17 August 2011). 'Tsunami warning came too late for Robinson Crusoe Island'. Earth Times. Retrieved 18 October 2012.
17. ^ ^abBodenham, Patrick (09 December 2010). 'Adrift on Robinson Crusoe Island, the forgotten few'. The Independent. Retrieved 7 April 2014.
18. ^Harrell, Eben (2 March 2010). 'Chile's president: Why did tsunami warnings fail?'. Time Magazine. Retrieved 4 March 2010.
19. ^ ^abGordon, Nick (14 December 2004). 'Chile: The real Crusoe had it easy'. The Telegraph. Retrieved 18 October 2012.
20. ^'Armageddon: Apocalypse Island'. A&E Television Networks (2009). Retrieved 18 October 2012. Archived January 13, 2012, at the Wayback Machine
21. ^Lowry, Brian (26 June 2010). 'Wackadoodle Demo Widens'. Variety. Retrieved 9 February 2014.

External links[edit]

• Routes around the island with descriptions and photos of sights
• Robinson Crusoe Island satellite map with anchorages and other ocean-related information
• A detailed map of the island showing footpaths and walkers' refuges
• Juan Fernandez photo gallery with images of landscapes, flora and fauna on the island
• 'Robinson Crusoe, Moai Statues and the Rapa Nui: the Stories of Chile’s Far-Off Islands' from Sounds and Colours
• A digital field trip to Robinson Crusoe Island by Goat Island Images
• 'Chasing Crusoe', a multimedia documentary about the island

The boat was approaching through boiling green water. One moment it was visible, the next submerged. Had it come up to the ramshackle jetty it would have been pulped, so it manoeuvred less than 50 yards out in the cauldron of a cove, waiting not just for us to arrive but for the moment when the crashing Pacific rollers slackened enough to allow the two crew to come alongside.

When that moment came, luggage was hurled on board with no regard for computers, boxes of booze or other valuables. As for the passengers, we six unfortunates - a scientist, two tourists, two birders and me - switched off to shut out the green soup that stood between us and the boat, roused ourselves from the paralysis that had overcome us... and jumped.

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This voyage was the final leg of a journey that had taken me from Santiago, capital of Chile, to Robinson Crusoe Island, 400 miles out in the Pacific Ocean.

Indeed, it was because of the real-life Crusoe, the Scots sailor Alexander Selkirk, that I was in this boat, and all I could think of as it fought against wind and tide and edged out of the cove, and inched between the two hungry pincers of rocks that were waiting to grab us at the entrance to the ocean, was this: Selkirk, you had it easy.

It was just over 300 years ago, at the end of September 1704, that this single-minded yet cranky Scotsman from Fife was marooned on the island, then called Juan Fernandez after the Spanish captain who first landed there in 1574.

Unlike Crusoe, who was shipwrecked, Selkirk actually asked to be put ashore after quarrelling with his privateer's skipper, Captain Stradling. He regretted his decision, but Stradling would not take him back. He was stuck there for four years and four months, until his rescue on February 2, 1709.

When I heard that the only practical way to get to Robinson Crusoe Island (its name was changed from Juan Fernandez in the mid-1990s to honour both Selkirk and Defoe) was to fly there, I was severely disappointed. If Selkirk had arrived by boat, why shouldn't I? Now I had been granted my wish...

The first part of the journey had been fine: the flight from Santiago had taken just under three hours, the pilot had put us down on the island's tiny runway, unloaded our bags and flown off. It was only then that I heard about the boat journey. There was no other way to get to the one settlement and tourist centre, San Juan Bautista.

And so there I was on this boat with my eyes clamped shut, trying to shut out the nightmare sight of colossal waves threatening to thrash the lives out of us. As the boat tossed in the swell, I gathered my courage and began to look at this remarkable island, 12 miles by 4¾. I could see a jagged chain of mountains, the highest reaching nearly 3,000ft, and cliffs diving vertically into the ocean.

It was a perfect place for pirates: remote, but near enough to the Spanish shipping lanes that were plied by the treasure-carrying galleons; there was fresh clean water from the mountain streams; fresh meat from the goats that had been brought there by the Spanish; millions of seals to provide flesh, oil for lamps and skins for clothing; there were no snakes or predators, and the climate was equable.

When the boat finally struck calmer waters it steered for shore, so we could see the cave at Puerto Inglés where Selkirk was reported to have spent time. The water was flat now that we were on the lee side of the island and I was no longer petrified.

And there at last was San Juan Bautista, clinging to the side of a mountain, and I could make out a stream that falls from the mountain into the very same harbour where Selkirk was eventually picked up. All the houses are wooden and tin and I had to look hard to see one with an upstairs.

There are no Tarmac roads but there are a few shops and restaurants - one called The Daniel Defoe, another the Refugio Nautico, where, later that day, I was to be served the most sublime local white fish. I stayed in a guesthouse overlooking the bay. It was clean and warm with polished wood floors, and the cook, Rosa, served excellent fish dishes.

Though there were satellite dishes mushrooming next to the chimney pots, San Juan Bautista was a world made for the wheelbarrow. They were used to carry shopping or rubbish or suitcases down to the landing stage. There were more of them than motor vehicles on the rutted streets.

Everywhere there were reminders that this was the island of Crusoe and Selkirk: murals, two statues, memorabilia; even litter bins painted with the name Robinson. A leather-skinned old man was lounging around the harbour. He told me his name was Robinson. 'Crusoe?' I asked. 'No sir, Green. Robinson Green.'

Like the old boy, the island seems fragile. There are fewer than 500 permanent inhabitants, a doctor, a dentist, a primary school. People live off the sea, harvesting the giant Juan Fernandez lobster and other shellfish. They also scrape the sparse fragments of bare soil and grow vegetables.

So it wasn't surprising to hear that tourism is in its infancy, and that the few visitors who do come are usually specialists - scuba divers, walkers or birders.

On my first full day, I climbed to the high point called Selkirk's Mirador. I trekked up through the National Park, first through cypress, conifer and eucalyptus plantations and then into rainforest where giant ferns and palms shut out the light.

The climb of about 500 yards up from sea level took about 90 minutes on a well marked path, and when I reached the Mirador I saw why Selkirk is said to have chosen this spot for his lookout.

Below me was San Juan Bautista where boats nodded in the harbour. The sea was slate grey, mirroring the sky, hurtling into land so hard that I could hear its boom from several miles away.

On my last day I climbed up from San Juan Bautista into the one area of pristine rainforest. Here, in the crater formed by the island's highest point, El Yunque, an anvil-shaped peak, lives this island's true treasure, a creature five inches long: the Juan Fernandez firecrown, Sephanoides fernandensis. It's a hummingbird.

The man who took me into the forest was Federico Pirol, a conservationist who had come to the island to count the nesting firecrowns. He believes there are fewer than 400; of these, perhaps only a dozen will be breeding.

Breeding has become increasingly difficult because the vegetation in the crater is being consumed by fast-growing, all-conquering maquis, colonies of brambles and shrubs. Pirola must weed them out, and it is a Sisyphean task.

'We need volunteers to come and help us,' he told me. 'The Yunque crater is the last original patch of rainforest left on the island, maybe 13 hectares or so, and if it dies, then so do these birds. Maybe English people would come here and spend some weeks in the crater. It will be a hard task for them. But they will be helping to save a most precious and spectacular creature.'

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One of the passengers who endured the boat trip with me, Claudio Vidal, a Chilean birder, had come 1,250 miles from Punta Arenas just to see this bird. When we met for dinner on my last evening his smile was as wide as Yunque's gaping rim. 'I got a lifer,' he told me.

In birder-speak, that meant he had actually seen for the first time the firecrown. What's more, he had photographed it. 'Of course, there are other hummingbird species on the island, but you can find them on the mainland, too.

'You have to see the firecrown to believe something so beautiful could exist. The male is brick-red with green wings and its crown glows as if it's made of emeralds and rubies. Look, I'm talking about something unique. It only lives here and it's one of the 20 rarest birds in the world.'

I wasn't looking forward to the return boat trip, but I needn't have lost any sleep. The day was calm, the sea was relatively flat, and when we reached the entrance to the airstrip harbour there was a bigger boat waiting for us. There were even lifejackets. Calm waters and a safe return: exactly the sort of happy ending that Defoe wrote for Crusoe.

• Nick Gordon travelled with Audley Latin America (01869 276210, www.audleytravel.com), which offers tailor-made itineraries to Robinson Crusoe Island and throughout Chile. A 12-night holiday costs from £2,295 per person sharing. You can combine this with a trip to Easter Island and a crossing of the Andes into Argentina. Recommended reading: Selkirk's Island by Diana Souhami (Phoenix, £7.99). Federico Pirola can be contacted at the Union of Ornithologists of Chile: unorch@entelchile.net.